Before we start, a vast, unending, tear-soaked avalanche of gratitude to all those of you kind enough to have voted this site as the Best Food Blog in this year's Observer Food Monthly Awards. I'm not going to even try to pretend I'm cool about this. I am absolutely thrilled and astounded. You can all take yesterday off. Now back to the food: This was an immensely satisfying and comforting plateful and just about exactly what I'm looking for in a home-cooked meal: a few ingredients, a simple recipe and outstanding taste. The great Marcella Hazan passed away last month, sad to say, aged 89. When I heard the news, I immediately reached for my battered copy of The Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking (one of my all-time favourite cookbooks) and I've been dipping into it most evenings since. Her influence cannot be overestimated. To quote The Telegraph's obituary: 'Chain smoking, impatient and famously brusque, she introduced recipes that were traditional, tasty and ruthlessly pared-down: her famous tomato sauce contained only a tin of peeled plum tomatoes, five tablespoons of unsalted butter, one small white onion and salt'. Ah yes, that sauce. Have you ever made it? If not, it's all over the internet, but here's her son Giuliano's description. Make it as soon as you possibly can. Actually, quoting from The Telegraph's obituary column has reminded me of another of my favourite books, their Book of Obituaries: A Celebration of Eccentric Lives. A glorious read. Here's a sample: 'Denisa Lady Newborough, who has died aged 79, was many things: wire-walker, nightclub girl, nude dancer, airpilot. She only refused to be two things - a whore and a spy - "and there were attempts to make me both", she once wrote. She was also a milliner, a perfumier and an antiques dealer; but her real metier, in early life at least, was what she called "profitable romance". Her opinions on the subject of presents from gentlemen would have done credit to the pen of Anita Loos: "I have never believed that jewels, any more than motor cars, can be called vulgar just because they are gigantic".' Anyway, there's a recipe in Essentials for Braised Leeks with Parmesan, made with, again, just five ingredients: leeks, butter, salt, parmesan and water. I've used chicken stock and added parsley. And serrano. And an egg. A stock cube won't do here; as you're reducing the stock to nothing, the end product would be overwhelmingly salty. serves one
approx 275g leeks (after trimming and discarding of tough outer leaves)) 25g butter, cubed 250ml home-made chicken stock 2 tbsps grated parmesan 1 tbsp finely chopped parsley 2 slices of serrano or prosciutto (approx. 50g) 1 fresh egg salt + black pepper Bring a pan of water to barely simmering and have a bowl of ice cold water ready. Crack the egg into a small cup or ramekin. Whisk the water into a whirlpool effect and carefully lower the egg into the centre. When set, after about 2-3 minutes, lift out the egg and slide into the bowl of icy water. Cut the leeks in half lengthways and wash under running water, and then cut them widthways into approximately 120mm pieces. Put them into a pan in which they'll all fit snugly in a single layer. Dot the cubes of butter over and pour in the chicken stock. Add a pinch of salt and grind in some black pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat a bit, cover and cook for about ten minutes, turning a couple of times. Remove the cover and turn the heat up to full. Let the stock bubble way to nothing, stirring the leeks a few times. This might take another ten minutes. Meanwhile, heat up a pan of water (for re-heating the egg) and grill the serrano slices. When the leeks are just starting to stick to the base of the pan, remove from the heat and stir in the parmesan and parsley. Put the egg into the pan of simmering water to re-heat. Spoon the leeks onto a dinner plate and arrange the serrano on top. Remove the egg from the pan of water, drain, and place on top of the serrano.
29 Comments
Sian
22/10/2013 16:55:48
I love your recipes. Another frugal one, from this impoverished middle aged student - is pasta with chick peas. I'm sure Marcella will have done one. I have all her books but unfortunately not with me. I think she also did a leek and chickpea soup. Who needs expensive ingredients ?
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The Skint Foodie
24/10/2013 00:27:24
Pasta e ceci - yes! She did do a leek and chickpea soup, you're right. I envy you having ALL the books!
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Flossie
22/10/2013 17:23:55
Thank you for mentioning the death of Marcella Hazan. I somehow missed that event.....and have 3 of her books too. Off to the Telegraph website now to read the obit...and take a dip into one of her cookbooks before bed.
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Anne
22/10/2013 21:40:50
Congratulations! Food is only part of what makes this such a great blog (an important part though). Your story of recovery and your courage are just as inspiring as the recipes. Thank you.
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The Skint Foodie
24/10/2013 00:33:13
Much appreciated Anne. Thank you.
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The Skint Foodie
24/10/2013 00:38:03
Thank you so much Elizabeth.
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We have perennial leeks growing in the backyard - they spread like weeds and they're a constant and wonderful vegetable to grow. They would be perfect in this dish, thank you! :) Oh, and I like that Lady Newborough didn't equate "profitable romance" with "whore". :)
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The Skint Foodie
24/10/2013 00:40:06
Well quite. A vast difference.
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Jane
23/10/2013 04:08:08
Love your recipes for really good food on a tight budget. Thank you! And congrats on the award.
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The Skint Foodie
24/10/2013 00:53:03
Thanks Jane!
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Rose
23/10/2013 05:00:51
Drat you Skintster! I was whiling away an hour reading blogs and now I want to buy that book of obituaries.
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The Skint Foodie
24/10/2013 00:41:42
For some reason, the paperback is listed on Amazon at £125.89!!!
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Rose
24/10/2013 06:09:31
As a professional cheapskate, I bought a copy for 1p + postage. And Stoner by John Williams. Never been able to buy one book at a time. Then there was the Official Blues Band Bootleg Album ... I'm blaming you. 23/10/2013 05:36:45
Having read that snippet of Lady Newborough's obituary, I am now wondering if I haven't slightly wasted my life. At minimum, I probably have time to fit in being a milliner and a wire walker.
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The Skint Foodie
24/10/2013 00:45:35
There's another obituary in there of Baroness Pannonica de Koenigswarter, the 'Bebop Baroness' (Charlie Parker died in her apartment), who 'painted abstruse canvases, using a mixture of acrylic, milk, Scotch whisky and scent'.
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Ben
23/10/2013 14:55:40
We'll done! It is a pretty good blog. Glad you got some recognition and a good dollop of publicity.
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Dawn
24/10/2013 04:38:33
Congratulations. Very well deserved. Rock on!!
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The Skint Foodie
24/10/2013 07:31:41
Thank you Dawn!
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24/10/2013 08:30:56
Oh my... At first glance I thought this was a pasta dish, but how much more intriguing that the Serrano and egg are resting on a bed of slow-braised leeks. Smitten. And in other news... I want to be Denisa Lady Newborough when I grow up.
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The Skint Foodie
25/10/2013 00:51:29
It's rocketed into my Top Ten of simple suppers!
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The Skint Foodie
25/10/2013 00:52:13
Thank you Chrissie!
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The Skint Foodie
25/10/2013 00:53:26
Maybe a little too salty, what with the serrano already included.
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Hey there - not going to lie, I am a recent follower and was referred here by Rachel's (from rachel eats) recommendation. But even though I'm late to the game I've been having a great time going through your archives. You have a really fantastic and inspiring blog, and congratulations on the award. I only wish I had found your site sooner.
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25/10/2013 13:05:13
Belated congratulations on your award, richly deserved. And thanks for the Marcella Hazan post, she was a true giant among food writers and her books will live on for further generations to enjoy. Did you see this Matthew Fort tribute to her: http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2013/sep/30/marcella-hazan-matthew-fort-tribute
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spabbygirl
22/11/2013 10:23:20
I totally agree!! Your award is very justified, I hope a book deal will follow, it would be nice to have all your ideas in one place. Congrats on all you're doing, you're story of recovery is also inspiring, bringing yourself back from that sort of place is a great achievement too and deserves congrats in its own right.
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SHORTLISTED FOR FOOD BLOG OF THE YEAR 2014
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